Acts of Worship

Written by Mohammed Ammar Bin Yaser • April 2011

Bhutan is different than other countries because its culture and traditions have remained unchanged over the past few centuries. People still live on the rugged mountains in small hamlets consisting of about five to 15 houses. The maintenance of a serene, contented and natural environment has been given priority over rapid commercial development in the country. The ethic of work in Bhutan is valued as an act of worship.

For the Bhutanese society, religion is the main driving force. The king is highly revered and monks are the pillars of communities and are socially active. Tantric Buddhism practiced in Bhutan encourages devotion, compassion and good deeds to elevate one spiritually and socially.

The art of painting in the land of the Thunder Dragon has been considered a pious and sacred act. Bhutan opened itself to tourism only in the 1970s. The spectacular temples, monasteries and Dzongs are perched high on rugged mountains which sometimes even mules and yaks cannot reach. Recently foreign archaeologists have been asked for advice for the preservation of 16th to 19th century old wall paintings in monasteries and temples which have been damaged by the harsh weather, floods and fires.

Tamshing monastery, one of the most important heritage sites, houses some of the earliest paintings in Bhutan. They date back from 1501 to 1506 and represent the historical figures of Bhutanese Buddhism, Saint Pema Lingpa and his time in Tamshing.

Most of these paintings are very sacred and are based on religious and revered figures of history. The British specialists in Bhutan were struck by the excellent quality and sophisticated workmanship of the artists. The paintings are colorful, vibrant, delicate and even have subtleties and delicacy of facial expressions. Professor David Park, from the Courtauld, said, “The wall paintings are absolutely stunning. Some of the earlier examples, especially, are extraordinary.”

At another site, the Tango Monastery, paintings are dedicated to the 17th century spiritual leader and poet, Tenzin Rabgye. Fine artists of ancient Bhutan had painted his personal chamber with rich pigments and gold. It is said that the figures in the paintings cried when Ragbye died.

Professor Stephen Rikerby has described the painting techniques as unrivalled in the west. He said that he was overawed by the details of the paintings achieved by uniquely layered colors and coatings. “We were astonished by the rich, jewel-like quality of some of the paintings in such remote settings. It was quite unexpected.” Even though the paintings depict intricate detail, they are spread over hundreds of square meters.

These paintings are the lifeline of Bhutan’s Buddhist traditions and are intricately woven into their lives like the colors in the wall paintings in the temples. They represent the past, and are relics of the historical culture that remains as pure as it was centuries ago. The kingdom’s out of the ordinary values and culture, highly sacred to the Bhutanese people, are the cornerstones of their national identity, especially the wall paintings. They represent what their culture and religion has been through over the centuries and help keep it untainted by any foreign influences. Hence, it is culture and its preservation that provides the country with most of its policies and is the foundation of its sovereignty.

Former King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck said, “Gross national happiness is more important than economic advancement of inhabitants.” For the people of Bhutan, happiness lies in protecting and conserving these paintings as acts of worship. In the words of Stephen Rickerby, “The significance and quality deserves far wider recognition in the world.”