Heaven on Earth

Written by Mudassir Jalal • December 2009

Visit Hunza and be overwhelmed by the rugged charm and fragrant landscape of this beautiful valley. Deep in the mountains of the Hindu Kush in northern Pakistan, high above sea level lies a valley called Hunza. The Hunza valley is surrounded by the Karakoram mountain range, which extends from India to Pakistan and into Jammu and Kashmir; its highest peak is K2 (8,611 meters); sixty of its peaks tower above 6,700 meters. The Hunza river lies in Jammu and Kashmir, in the area controlled by Pakistan, and flows west and then south for 193 kilometers. Though most of the Hunza valley is located in Pakistan, it crosses the borders of Afghanistan and China.

Karimabad, a grouping of six villages, is the principal populated area in this fertile valley. The Hunza valley is dotted with glacial lakes and rivers that form in concurrence with glacial ice flows in the mountains. Due to these flows, the Hunza valley is fertile and has sustained isolated populations of people, who have spoken a language unrelated to any other, throughout the centuries.

As the glaciers melt, the glacial water (sometimes referred to as glacial milk due to its opaque white colour from the minerals found in it) flows through the valley, and the people living in Hunza use it to irrigate their crops. The entire valley is well-cultivated; every inch of arable land is put to use. Perhaps because of the mineral-rich water and fertile soil, the Hunza people are famous for their long lives, some living to be 120.

Hunza was easily defended as the paths were often less than half a meter (about 18 “) wide. The high mountain paths often crossed bare cliff faces on logs wedged into cracks in the cliff, with stones balanced on top. They were also constantly exposed to regular damage from weather and falling rocks. These were the “much feared dead hanging” of the early Chinese histories that terrified everyone, including several famous Chinese Buddhist monks such as Xuanzang.

In the old days, survival of the feudal regimes of Hunza was ensured by the impressive Baltit fort that sits on top of Karimabad. The foundations of the fort date back 700 years, but there have been rebuilds and alterations over the centuries. In the 16th century, the Thum (ruler of Hunza) married a princess from Baltistan who brought master Balti craftsmen to renovate the building as part of her dowry. The architectural style is a clear indication of Tibetan influence in Baltistan at the time.

The Mirs of Hunza abandoned the fort in 1945 and moved to a new palace downhill. The fort started to decay and there was concern that it may fall into ruin. Following a survey by the Royal Geographical Society of London, a restoration programme was initiated and supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and Historic Cities Support Programme. The programme was completed in 1996 and the fort is now a museum run by the Baltit Heritage Trust.

Today, the famous Karakoram Highway crosses Hunza, connecting Pakistan to China via Khunjerab Pass. Travelling up the valley from the south, Hunza is the land to the left, and prior to Nagar to the right of Hunza river. Regular bus and van services operate in Gilgit and Central Hunza (Ganish village, Aliabad and Karimabad)

Hunza is one of the most exotic places in Pakistan. Several high peaks rise above 6,000m in the surroundings of Hunza valley, which provides spectacular views of some of the most stunning mountains of the world including Rakaposhi 7788m (25,551 feet) and Ultar Sar 7388m (24,239 feet). The valley is believed to be the inspiration for the mythical valley of Shangri-la in James Hilton’s 1933 novel ‘Lost Horizon’.

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